This and That

Greek washrooms are an experience. When you go into one, you just never know what you are going to find. In the brand new terminal in Igoumenitsa, the stalls were something out of horror films: piss everywhere (literally, on the rim, the seat, the top of the tank), no TP, no soap, so bad that you were afraid to go in. The washrooms at Vrachos Camping in Kastraki (Meteora) were pristine, you could even flush your TP (very rare, most often have to wipe and discard in a small bin for just that purpose), but there was no soap provided (I saw people leave a toilet stall and walk out sans washing quite regularly). Now, in Camping Olympius Zeus, TP and soap are provided, but they use the infamous "Turkish Toilets" - if you have never used one, let me indulge you. Essentially, they are pits in the ground made of porcelain. There are two pedastals for your feet, and you squat like a backcatcher and deliver the turd directly into the pipe. I have yet to figure out how its done with pants on, so I have to remove all my clothes from the waist down to crap. It is also very uncomfortable, my knees lock up, so I have to grip the water pipe behind me and get creative; honestly, I have had more comfortable shits in the woods! I have no idea why these toilets are popular through out the Mediterranean, but they are (Southern France, Spain, Greece, Italy, Morrocco, and I am sure in many other nations).

I am not sure that my last post was quite specific enough on just how contrasting Greece is. It would be nothing for one of the (many) buses we rode to drop some gorgeous Greek girl off, dressed to the nines in the latest Euro fashions in some tiny mountain village where she lived, only to see her stop and chat with an old shepherd, who wore an old sweater, long dark pants, carrying a crook (the image of a Grecian in the 1950's, say). It was a very odd scene, very juxtaposed. In that respect, the urbane, modernizing youth, and the older, traditional generation seem to coexist quite well together, even though they appear to be worlds apart.
In other areas, this conflicted image plays itself out. Greece, behind the modern "core" nations of the Union environmentally, have kicked off a recycling program, and are trying to establish an environmental consciousness (Northern Europe, of course, being on the cutting edge, along with Canada). Yet despite these efforts, there is filth everywhere. Garbage lines the roads, and so forth. Even in an area of great natural beauty, you see a disproportionate amount of rubbish (Jer and I crossed a bridge over this stunning canyon, and there 100 feet down was a huge pile of trash that stank to high heaven!).
The divide between rich anbd poor is curious as well. It is clear that many people are improving their quality of living, but unlike at home, or in other modern nations, these rich people do not flock together and build prestigious communities. It is nothing to see two gorgeous brand new homes, just beautiful, to be side by side with the most run down, dilapitated farm you have seen. Walls falling in on the chicken coop, the house, the stink of garbage and waste, both animal and human, right there beside this expensive new home...very odd to see it.
In work ethic, and workmanship, the Greeks seem to have declined as well. Many jobs are only half done, or done half assed. The workers seem lazy and lack pride in their work. New construction jobs look poor, and there is always a lot of excess waste. For example, as we waited for the bus today, we sat by this job site, and there was spilled cement all over the gound, where the workers had spilled and not bothered to clean up; or we saw these guys painting a ceiling of a balcony, and they were spilling paint all over the Terra Cota roff below them, but they did nothing to stop it. At one time the Greek civilization was the very pinnacle of human achievement in areas of art and architecture, often fusing the two disciplines. I wonder what happened to that ability, where or how it was lost. This type of malaise seems very standard of Mediterranean nations today, when once they were so great.
Don't worry, I am still loving Greece, but these are some casual observations that I have made as I have trekked about the Northern part of the country.

Today, Jer and I hiked up into Mt. Olympus. I think we flatter ourselves when we say we went 1/3 of the way, but I will stick to it. The walk was very rugged and strenuous. I do not think I could bear it with a pack on, especially in the heat! We made it up to a fairly large outcrop of rock that jutted into the canyon. From there we could see the summit for the first time without the shroud of cloud cover that hovers over it perpetually. It was scenic, but it did not stir my blood as I thought it might. No doubt that was due to the fact that we were at least 2000 metres below the summit that was the home to gods.

This area of Greece is curious. Mt. Olympus sits 5 km inland from the Aegean, where our campground is. The white sand beaches are known as the "Olympus Riviera", and it would seem that this is the place that many Greeks come to holiday, as it is not overrun by tourists from other nations. The whole region is not "touristy", at least not for out of country travellers. For Greeks, it is a tourist haven. All the signs are in Greek almost exclusivley (elsewhere, they are in Greek and English) which is hard, as they use their own alphabet. We have gotten good, actually, at working out place names in Greek at least. I am surprised that the home of the ancient gods is not a bigger drawing card, but there it is. At least at the Taverna on the beach we have become known (as the only "Anglika", I am sure), and there are two servers there who speak good english, so eating out is easy.

The moon rise last night was spectacular! A blood red moon, just past full, rose over the Aegean. It made the imagination stir, indeed. Small fishing boats plied the water, the moon rose slowly, with great majesty,the Mythos was cold, and the food delicious. I truly do love the habit of eating late here (dinner begins anywhere between 8-11). It lets you sit back, relax, and enjoy the evening as it descends.