Ciao Bella
Well, these last weeks have really flown by, so much has gone on, so the blog has really suffered. I will pick up the story in Vienna. The last day there was a blasse one for Brad and I. Jer and Dora had some cheesy romantic notions about the city (due to some smalchie chick flick, Before Sunset) and went off to pursue their own fantasies, leaving Brad and I to look after all of the practical day to day things...laundry, train bookings, groceries, etc. So, that was how we spent our last day in the grand city of the Habsburg dynasty.
Our train through the Austrian country side to the Italian border was unreal. It was the same ride Brad and I had taken 3 years before, but we had done it at night, and arrived in Venice at 3 am. This time we wee doing it during the day. The mountain scapes were extraordinary ... That Tirolian mountain culture is so rustic and, for lack of a better word, pretty. Little chalets and massive old hillforts dotting the landscape. The idea of skiing the Alps really appeals to me...I'll put that into my backpocket for another day!!
Once we got to Venice Mestre, we switched trains for Firenze, and then onto La Spezia, the closest major hub for the Cinque Terre (five lands) region. We ended up in the village of Levanto, where we set up at a local campground. As we left the station, this strange young Italian guy latched onto the group...no idea what he wanted, but he proceded to asist us in finding the camp...we thought for sure he wanted money or to rob us, but it turned out to be a random kind act...kind of sad that our first instinct is mistrust, but that is the way of the world, I guess...better to be safe than sorry!
The following day we headed up into the hills onto the footpath that runs all along this stretch of coast. It is a UNESCO world heritage site, as well as an Italian national park, and you could see why immediately. The scenery was breath taking...it put me in mind of the Bruce Trail from Dyers Bay to Tobermory, only more rugged, more mountainous, and more well travelled. The 7 km stretch from Levanto to Montorosso (the first of the 5 villages that makes up the Cinque Terre) was a good haul, up and down hillsides, all the while hugging the coastline, offering up stunning vistas. We had a great bagged lunch of tuna sammies and crackers with olives and cheese. Once we descended the trail to Montorosso, Jer's dodgy knee was acting up (some will rememer the Appalacian trail, when he ran down the trail and wrecked it up) so we just hit the beach in town. Despite the fact that it was ctober, the beach was full, and the water warm. Just a side note, but Italian chicks FROM Italy are SLAMMING HOT...had to hit the water just to hide the Penius Erectius... Why aren't Italian chicks at home like this? Too bad...
The local food speciality in the region is pesto...my god, pesto lasagna is so good, it was like an orgasm in my mouth (or something like that).
The following day, we walked the actual Cinque Terre trail from Montorosso to Riomaggiorio. We definately started at the rugged end. the hike to the second town of Vernazza was quite a trek, but also offered some of the best scenes. The trail at time hugs the mountain side, and is less than a foot wide...pretty awesome. Vernazza itself was a sleepy fishing village, and in my opinion, the prettiest of the towns due to its harbour and building location on a small prominatory. The trail continued on, and got progressivly easier...which was a good thing as Dora was hurting. Eventually, the trail (which was a rugged SOB at times) turned into Via del Amore (Lovers Lane - heres looking at you Brad), which was a cobbled cliff side walk into Riomaggiorio. We did the whole 12 km hike, and it was worth every uphill stretch. What scenery. It is a little bit of joy to get out there and hike it..and it is still off the beaten backpacker trail...although very popular with European tourists.
The day after the hike, we headed for Firenze. Brad and I were not sold on it as a destination, despite its glorious Rennaissance history. Boy, missing it would have been a huge mistake. The city was amazing. We found a hotel/hostel that was 25 euros a person (it is an expensive city due to its popularity), but it included a great breakfast, so it was not too bad. We hit the streets and wandered all around, as the evening wore on. There are colossal churches (the Duomo may be one of the world's most impressive cathedrals), and wonderous old palaces that now house museums and fantastic works of Rennaissance art. It seemed as though a significant piece of statuary was on every street corner. After watching the sunset over the river Arnoe, we retired to a restaurant that sat beside the Basillica Santa Croce (basically, the Italian Westminster abbey, where many of the most glorified Italians are buried). We had some very good house red, and pizza...yes, we are food afficianados!
Jer and Dora then went back to the room for some "alone time" (read here, hanky panky) after our 2 l of red. Brad and I ventured to the Red Garter, a bar of some repute. You will all be proud that we held our own in the great International Beer Pong Tournament. It is played a little bit differently than at home...no ping pong tables or paddles...you set up a pyramid of 6 cups, and throw a ping pong ball at the other teams cups across the table.kind of like beer basketball. We had had 3 pints before the start, and then filled our glasses (all the other teams poured a mouthful in, and "chugged" that...not us, we chugged full beers!!) Things looked grim off the start, as we lost to a pair of particularly hot American girls, who used their sexual charms to throw us off and get some of our beer. But we rallied, and were able to advance to the quarter finals. We were on the brink of elimination to a pair of Aussies, when I hit a final shot that forced overtime...and then went on to hit 3 straight cups for the win (no offense to Brad, but I carried that team). In the semi's, I went to piss (we were lit) and Brad conceded defeat on account that he could not force himself to chug another beer.
After that we staggered out to the streets...I made some racial slurs about Brad's German heritage, and we fought. I picked him up and carried him upside down for a while, then turtled him and threw his shirt onto the street...then we laughed it off and walked up to the Duomo, which was deserted on account of the hour, and Brad barfed all over the street...very classy guy.
The next morning was rough, but we made it through. We went to the Duomo (no sign of barf, the pigeons were busy). It was just as grand on the inside. We then went to Santa Croce, and saw the tomb of Galileo, Machiavelli, Dante, Michelangelo, amongst others...some might argue that those guys were important...I don't know...
Then it was onto Venice. I tell you, Spirit of the West has got it right, "If Venice is sinking, then I'm going under, because beauty's religion, and it's christened me with wonder". Venice is the Grand old master of the Mediteranean. Of course, the fact that the floating city exhists at all can be attributed to one man...Attila the Hun. When his horde of 100,000 + warriors swept into central Europe, they appeared to be invincible. This made the inhabitants of northeast Italy nervous, so they headed into the swampy lagoon and founded a city were the Huns' horses could not go. For the next 1000 years, Venice was the major power broker in the Western Med, and it shows in the faded glory of the republican city. The basillica San Marco is the most impressive church I have ever seen. It is a true coming together of East and West in its architectural style...amazing, especially lit up at night, with bands warring in the piazza for musical supremacy. We spent 5 days here (2 with Brad and Dora, and 3 without), just wandering around its warren of streets and canals. It is a magical place of beauty and art and majesty. There is no where else like it the world over. It has indeed "strove with none, for none was worth its strife". Actually, the Republic strove with many in it rise to the top, especially the Byzantines (who they dealt with by convincing the 4th crusade to sack, despite the fact it was a christian city..the 4th crusade never did make the holy land, but went home with the plunder of a christian kingdom), and then the Turks...despite the turmoil, Venice prospered, because its religion was money. It alone of all the city states of christianity never once burnt a heretic...fundametalism is bad for business (as the world is discovering yet again, from Bush to Bin Laden). Venice had the worlds most advanced spy net work, as its merchants, military, and spy network were all one and the same, all working for the good of themselves, and by connection, the state. It is a marvelous place to lose yourself...physically and spiritually. You feel reborn here, alive and filled with a lust for life. Venice makes my European top 5, if not number 1. Glorious, wandering the alley ways buzzed on good (cheap) wine and pasta, the sun gone, the lanterns lit, the water smelling of waste and salt. Carnevale, the huge pre Lent celebration, is another must for my future list of things to do. Robbed and masked, people party all night long for 2 weeks...400 years ago, they partied for 6 months (yes, a 6 month long carnevale!). Another day, with certainty!
Today we fly to Bristol...could not find a Malta flight for less than 300 Euros....flight to England 63...too bad, maybe another time. I am exciited about seeing the English moor lands though!
1 Comments:
italian women in n.america are every bit as hot as those in the motherland!blue-black hair and big knockers.you don't have to puke on,em'to impress them.still can't get laid EH?.
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